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Groin Tarasov
Groin Tarasov

Herbal Principles In Cosmetics


Interest in the molecular and mechanistic aspects of cosmetic research has grown exponentially during the past decade. Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action critically examines the botanical, ethnopharmacological, phytochemical, and molecular aspects of botanical active ingredients used in cosmetics. Along with dermatological and cosmetic uses, the book also explores the toxicological aspects of these natural ingredients, maintaining a balanced view that carefully dissects the hype from the solid science.




Herbal Principles in Cosmetics



Includes a Vivid Color Insert with Photographs of Botanical SpeciesHerbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action is one of the few books devoted to the mechanisms of action of herbal compounds based on scientific analysis, making it an exceptionally valuable reference for pharmacologists, natural product chemists, skin physiologists, and dermatologists.


Elisa Bottini-Massa is an expert in Pharmacy and Cosmetic Science and Technology. She is founder, managing director, and cosmetic designer of Helan Cosmesi di Laboratorio srl, a cosmetic manufacturing enterprise whose mission statement is to produce natural cosmetics in the respect of the environment and living beings.


Interest in the molecular and mechanistic aspects of cosmetic research has grown exponentially during the past decade. Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action critically examines the botanical, ethnopharmacological, phytochemical, and molecular aspects of botanical active ingredients used in cosmetics. Along with dermato


Elisa Bottini-Massa is an expert in Pharmacy and Cosmetic Science and Technology. She is founder, managing director, and cosmetic designer of Helan Cosmesi di Laboratorio srl, a cosmetic manufacturing enterprise whose mission statement is to produce natural cosmetics in the respect of the environment and living beings.


To determine whether cosmetic firms manufacture, hold or deliver for introduction into interstate commerce cosmetics that are adulterated or misbranded, and to prevent these and other practices violating Sec. 301 of the FD&C Act, the law gives the agency the authority to enter the establishments of such firms and inspect their facilities as well as all pertinent equipment, finished and unfinished materials, containers and labeling therein. See Sec. 704(a) of the FD&C Act.


Rigorous adherence to good manufacturing practice minimizes the risk of adulteration or misbranding of cosmetics. The following cosmetic establishment instructions, excerpted from FDA's Inspection Operations Manual, may serve as guidelines for effective self-inspection. A good inspection score means that an establishment follows good manufacturing practice.


The fact that the skin is the most visible organ makes us aware of the ageing process every minute. The use of plant extracts and herbs has its origins in ancient times. Chronological and photo-ageing can be easily distinguished clinically, but they share important molecular features. We tried to gather the most interesting evidence based on facts about plants and plant extracts used in antiaging products. Our main idea was to emphasize action mechanisms of these plant/herbal products, that is, their "strategies" in fighting skin ageing. Some of the plant extracts have the ability to scavenge free radicals, to protect the skin matrix through the inhibition of enzymatic degradation, or to promote collagen synthesis in the skin. There are some plants that can affect skin elasticity and tightness. Certainly, there is a place for herbal principles in antiaging cosmetics. On the other hand, there is a constant need for more evaluation and more clinical studies in vivo with emphasis on the ingredient concentration of the plant/herbal products, its formulation, safety, and duration of the antiaging effect.


TCM was used together with western medicine for treating SARS back in 2003. In 2020, it is being put to the test again by the novel coronavirus disease (COVID-19), which has spread to every city in China and is starting to spread to other countries as well. So far, as no vaccine has been developed, herbal practitioners, TCM experts and doctors in China and Hong Kong are testing a range of TCM herbs and even drugs that were used for treating SARS, Ebola and HIV.


Our bodies can get sick when attacked by exogenous factors (referred to as different types of external evils). Diagnosis of the symptoms as observed and links to the natural environmental can prompt TCM herbal practitioners to apply TCM theories and come up with a curative treatment plan and appropriate prescription. Precisely getting rid of the extra or excess, replenishing what isare required and restoring the balance is the way to treat or cure. The choice of herbs require testing for the best results.


We interpret ancient prescriptions and continue with our exploratory development. Our mission is to supply functional herbal extracts produced under the guidelines of the TCM principles to the health and beauty industry. The Nutri-Woods R&D team takes inspiration from ancient TCM literature. With the assistance of modern science and technology, we have developed some theories for health and beauty. They are:


3) acne inhibition activity, improve skin acne conditions caused by the use of cosmetics through a three-way approach of (i) promoting penetration and absorption, (ii) unblocking pores, and (iii) inhibiting hair follicles keratosis, to enhance the efficacy of clearing acne.


Different TCM theories are applied to the above products and in turn, their applications. All symptomatic cases have taken references to ancient literature. The Nutri-Woods TCM expert team deliberately writes the combination of herbs (prescription) given for each product. Screening of herbs is carried out by the R&D team using different scientific approaches to evaluate and before optimizing the most appropriate proportion to be used in the final extract. All the TCM herbs used are the common herbs that are being used by the TCM herbal practitioners for the preparation of edible decoctions, which means that all herbs chosen are safe to humans. TCM herbs are natural and green. Some of them may have been living together with or around us for some times. Safety references may not be available in some of the search engines or websites.


Nowadays, Herbal cosmetic is growing rapidly as most women prefer natural products rather than chemicals products for their personal care. Herbal cosmetic contains natural nutrients to improve and provide consumers satisfaction due to relatively fewer side effects compared to synthetic cosmetics. Indonesia is one of the biggest supplier's countries for herbal raw materials in cosmetic products. Many plants are available naturally as well as different uses that can be made as basic ingredients for cosmetic preparations, such as onion dayak bulb, kemuning leaf, pegagan, kecombrang, red betel, pecan, and sweet root. This review aimed to provide information on plants in Indonesia based on the phytochemicals contents that can be formulated into various categories of cosmetic preparations, such as skin care, hair care, anti-aging, skin whitening, and antioxidant.


Volume 4 of "The rules governing medicinal products in the European Union" contains guidance for the interpretation of the principles and guidelines of good manufacturing practices for medicinal products for human and veterinary use laid down in Commission Directives 91/356/EEC, as amended by Directive 2003/94/EC, and 91/412/EEC respectively.


Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) is the medicine that can be used for preventing and treating diseases, the application of which follows traditional Chinese principles and philosophies.1 It is an approach to health that treats the human body as an organic whole. It holds that although viscera and tissues in the body have individual functions and responsibilities, they also coordinate to maintain normal life activities. Furthermore, TCM considers the human body and its external natural surroundings, which are dependent upon one other as an organic whole. As a result, even body surface problems such as acne, pigmentation, abnormal complexion and dry, coarse skin are viewed as the outcome of disharmony among viscera, tissues and organs, or between the human body and the natural world.


TCM overall is unique in its use, reflecting the characteristics of Chinese history, culture and natural resources. This article thus serves as a review of the cultural and historic aspects and characteristics of TCM in cosmetics, to assist product developers in understanding how its principles and ingredients can be combined for products targeted to this specialized market.


In most cultures including the Chinese, the origin of makeup and cosmetics is often connected with religious or social etiquette, which is reinforced by society via human aesthetic consciousness. This is evidenced among ancient ruins of the Shang Dynasty, wherein oracle bone inscriptions defined beauty, makeup and bathing (see Figure 1).9 Beauty was likened to a woman in a gorgeous, feathered hat; making oneself up was described as a beautiful girl decorating herself and looking into a mirror; and taking a bath was described as a person cleaning himself in a container filled with water.


Through research in these TCM references of the past thousands of years, it is clear that the use of TCM in cosmetics was tightly connected to pharmacology in Chinese history, and that the development of TCM cosmetics from time immemorial has shifted from simple to complex, from few to various types and forms, and from serving the minority to reaching the multitudes.


It is worth noting that most ancient TCM cosmetics not only served cosmetic functions, but also aimed to treat beauty-damaging diseases. Limited by technology, it was not possible to conduct toxicity research during ancient times. However, through thousands of years of experiment and clinical use, Chinese consumers summarized their empirical findings on toxicity and the safety of TCM ingredients in various medical works, which have been found to be consistent with modern toxicity research conclusions. For instance, arsenic is recorded as an extremely poisonous drug in Ben Cao Gang Mu.22 041b061a72


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